A Sophisticated Trini Wine

By Jeremy Matouk, published on Island Origins Magazine on the 20th of November, 2017

In spite of ridiculously high duties on wine, more and more, Trinibagonians are discovering the wine experience. Compared to beer and rum, our traditional drinks of choice, decent wine is quite expensive. But we are, nonetheless, developing a fascination with variety and exploring finer options in the process.

For me, the fascination began 40 years ago while at university trying to impress my future bride, but really became a passion in my 30s and thereafter. Having tried hundreds of wines from different countries and regions I became more and more inquisitive. In 2004 I decided to take a second honeymoon and explore several of Italy’s regions—specifically Piedmont, Tuscany and Umbria. I needed to experience first-hand where the wines were from, and to learn more about the people that made them.

What I discovered was such a romantic and educational experience. I knew then I had to be part of the world of wine—either as a winery owner or wine merchant. To do either necessitated much more travel and exploration. Over the next few years I visited wine regions in Napa, Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, Spain and France, so different from the cane fields that yielded the spirits of my home. Travel and exploration have taught me that all great wine has locational identity. Wine writers call it ‘terroir’ but it is more than that. It is also about culture, cuisine and tradition.

Our multi-cultural heritage and cuisine here on the islands of Trinidad and Tobago, lend themselves very well to all sorts of wine experimentation. A personal favorite with local cuisine is White Hermitage (from the Northern Rhône Valley) with curry. It’s a culinary marriage made in heaven. All it takes is an adventurous spirit and an open mind.

Photograph by Kyle Walcott via Island Origins Magazine. (Scaled via AI.)

Cover photograph by Photo Mix via pixabay.com.

France: M. Chapoutier

One of the most highly-regarded winemakers in France, Michel Chapoutier can trace his family’s history in the Rhône Valley back to 1808, when his great-great-great-grandfather Marius purchased an estate and some vineyards in the beautiful village of Tain L’Hermitage. Michel Chapoutier is considered a pioneer of biodynamic winemaking, the objective being to enable the terroir “to express itself fully” in the wines. To date, M. Chapoutier’s wines have garnered more than 500 90+ ratings from Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate.

M. Chapoutier offers a wine school, or “L’Ecole”, a manifestation of the winery’s commitment to knowledge and quality.

M. Chapoutier’s commitment to biodynamic winemaking requires a deep understanding of the region’s terroir, and practices that respect the natural balance of the land.

Since 1996, the winery has included Braille on their labels, which sets them apart.

Jeremy and Michelle sample some of the latest offerings at M. Chapoutier’s store in Tain L’Hermitage.

These classic trucks are among the many reminders of M. Chapoutier’s long history in the Rhône Valley.

The Chapoutier family can trace its roots in the Rhône Valley back to 1808. However, the actual wine business was established in 1879.

Marius Chapoutier decided to begin making wines with his own grapes after tasting wines by other winemakers who were using his grapes, and deciding that something was “lost in translation”.

Marius Chapoutier’s controversial decision to make wine from his own fruit is what provided the capital for M. Chapoutier to expand into the winery it is today.

Vineyards cover the hillsides that surround Tain L’Hermitage.

M. Chapoutier is deeply committed to organic grape-growing, allowing the terroir to come forth authentically in their wines.

Rose bushes are planted in the vineyards to protect the vines from certain mildews. Since they are susceptible to the same mildews, the roses act as an early warning that the mildew might be present.

Marius Chapoutier made history in the Rhône Valley when he became the first winemaker to vinify his own fruit.

The grapes grow on steep slopes which look down onto the beautiful town of Tain L’Hermitage, along the Rhône River.

Jeremy and Michelle tour the hillside vineyards.

Although blends are common in this area of the Rhône Valley, M. Chapoutier has a preference for single-variety wines (wines made from one type of grape).

Marius Chapoutier knew that he had purchased prime vineyards and had great faith in the potential of his grapes to make world-class wines.

When the weather is clear, one can see for miles past Tain L'Hermitage and the river.

The Chapel of St. Christopher sits on the hillside, watching over the vineyards.

St. Christopher's Chapel is like a window into the long history of this region.

The view from the top of the hill is breathtaking, especially when the clouds part and the sunshine illuminates the town and the Rhône River.

France: Delas

Delas was founded over 160 years ago in the northern Rhône Valley in France. Having been acquired by Champagne Deutz in 1977, Delas is a study in coexistence between traditional and modern approaches to winemaking, embracing its own long history and the rebirth that has come with the Champagne Deutz influence.

Under the guidance of winemaker Jacques Grange, Delas combines state-of-the-art equipment and meticulous attention to detail to produce wines that are complex yet economical. The winery’s vineyards can be found on the steep, scenic slopes of the northern Rhône, and are part of some of the region’s most prominent appellations.

Delas combines a rich and extensive history with new, streamlined methods of winemaking to maximize both quality and value.

Delas grows grapes on 30 hectares of vineyards. Here, freshly harvested red grapes arrive for sorting.

Prior to fermentation, a press is used only for white grapes. The white grapes are pressed with their skins, seeds, and stems.

The winery recently acquired new, French-produced, stainless steel fermentation tanks for red wine. The tops of these tanks have 4 modules that can move as one unit, or be punched down separately.

Our tour guide, Bruno, explains to Michelle that 2 of Delas' white wines - Hermitage and Clos-Boucher - are fermented and aged in oak barrels. Delas is careful in its selection of oak barrels, believing that the oak should only enhance the expression of the terrior, not overpower the wines.

A newly restructured aging cellar is among the many improvements that Delas has made, in an effort to remain at the forefront of French winemaking.

In an effort to save time, unlabeled bottles are stored under plastic covering so that they do not need to be dusted prior to labeling.

The labeling and box-packing machines are located in the same room.

40% of Delas' production remains in France.

The warehouse stores the final product before shipment. Delas exports 60% of its production, with the U.S. and Canada being major recipients.

Recent vintages from the vineyards of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Côte Rôtie, Condrieu, Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Ventoux have won international recognition.

The sleek minimalism of the tasting room decor is a reflection of the winery's commitment to sophistication and efficiency.

Jeremy and Bruno, after the tasting.

Steep granite slopes are characteristic of the vineyards, many of which can be seen from the winery.

Delas produces its wines using grapes from its own vineyards, as well as grapes from parter growers who share Delas' commitment to using only top-quality fruit.

Newly harvested red grapes arrive for sorting.

Newly harvested grapes are ready to be de-stemmed.

Winemaker Jacques Grange stops by to oversee the sorting and de-stemming of the newly harvested grapes.

Under the guidance of winemaker Jacques Grange, pictured here with Jeremy, Delas has flourished.

France: Famille Perrin

Famille Perrin—or the Perrin family—has been making wine at Château de Beaucastel in the Rhône Valley of France since 1909. Marc Perrin, currently in charge, is part of the 5th generation of the family.

The Château gets its name from the Beaucastel family, who were prominent residents of the area in the 16th Century. The winery is best known for its Châteauneuf du Pape wines. Famille Perrin grows 13 varieties of grapes on 100 hectares of continuous plots, which is unusual for the region. Three quarters of the vineyards are within the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation.

Jeremy and Michelle at the front door of Château de Beaucastel.

Château de Beaucastel takes its name from the Beaucastel family, which was prominent in the region in the 16th century.

The winery has a warm, rustic beauty that is characteristic of French countryside architecture.

Madame Perrin, grandmother of Marc Perrin, is the owner of everything on paper, and still resides at the winery.

The winery's grounds are peaceful and beautifully landscaped, a tribute to its long history.

The vineyards surround the winery.

The stones in the vineyards are typical of the region. Since it is forbidden to irrigate, the stones slow the evaporation of water.

This truck will return from the vineyards full of freshly harvested grapes.

Our guide, Kirsty, explains the winery's unique flash-heating technique. Prior to fermentation, juice is pumped through metal pipes heated to 70C, which kills the enzyme that causes oxidation, and reduces the need for sulfites to preserve the wine.

In order to keep oak flavouring subtle, 70% of the wine's aging is done in tanks.

The winery uses a combination of traditional approaches and high-tech advancements to produce its world-renowned wines.

The Troncais Forest, the largest and oldest oak forest in France, provides the wood for the barrels.

French oak is slower-growing than American oak. The wood is more dense, so it imparts a more subtle flavour.

The wines are bottle-aged in the cellars for at least 8 months.

Jeremy prepares to take tasting notes.

Famille Perrin uses a high percentage of the Mourvèdre grape, which is unusual.

Jeremy and Kirsty discuss the latest developments at the winery while preparing for the tasting.

The vineyards can be seen through the tasting room window. The stones were deposited by melting glaciers.

Enjoying a visit from Marc Perrin, who stopped by for lunch after the tasting.